Saturday 30 September 2017

Day 58. Home!

After a wonderful evening at the amazing Inn at Sunset Hill in New Hampshire today was the day to pack the bikes for the final time and head home. It was another cold morning and it was doing it's best to rain a little but it soon gave up. We set off after a hearty breakfast and rode the whole way home with just a brief stop for gas. We arrived home just after noon and found everything just as we had left it - thank goodness!


And so that is it! Another incredible trip successfully completed. We know we are lucky to be able to do trips like this and privileged to be able to tour this amazing country on our trusty Harleys. The bikes, as always, performed flawlessly and never a missed beat. They are comfortable, efficient touring machines.

Total mileage for the trip: 11,250

States travelled: 15 (NH, VT, NY, MI, WI, MN, ND, MT, WA, OR, CA, NV, ID, WY, SD) + 2 Canadian Provinces (Ontario, British Columbia)
National Parks: Glacier, MT; Olympic, WA; Mount Rainier, WA; Mount St. Helen's, a WA State Park, Yosemite, CA; Sequoia & King's Canyon, CA; Yellowstone, WY; Badlands, SD.

Items left in hotel rooms: 2 hats, 1 toothbrush, 1 lightening charging cable!

We'd do it all again in a heartbeat!




Friday 29 September 2017

Days 54 - 57. Travel Days

All good things must come to an end and after delaying the inevitable we can delay no more. Home we must go! So the last 4 days have seen us making tracks East fairly smartly with no side trips or sites to see.

Day 54. Tuesday.
From Sturgeon Bay, WI we travelled 296 miles to St. Ignace, Michigan and crossed our final time zone. We are now back on EST and really feel the trip is coming to an end. The weather has been amazing. We could see that there was a major cold front about a day behind us. This was pushing a bank of unusually warm weather in front of it. This day the temps started dropping and we rode in 70 degree temps under cloudy skies, which was a welcome relief from all the heat (90's) we had over the previous days.

Day 55. Wednesday.
Today we headed across the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, rejoining our old friend Rte 2 for part of it. It tried to rain on us but thankfully, never amounted to much and we stayed dry. It was definitely cooler though! We crossed into Ontario, Canada and stopped at North Bay on the shores of Lake Nipissing for the night. We have stayed here before so it was an easy stop. Trip - 327 miles.


Day 56. Thursday. The front has now passed over us, leaving cold weather behind. Thankfully, the skies were clear and we set off all layered up and with heated gear on max. It was a fast ride through Ontario on Rte 17 to the outskirts of Ottawa where we headed south and crossed back into USA and New York State. The Border Patrol guy gave Tom a hard time when he told him we were staying in Ogdensburg, NY for the night. Apparently this needed an explanation but we really didn't have one other than we thought we had ridden far enough for one day! We arrived at our accommodation to find it firmly locked and apparently deserted. Perhaps we shouldn't be staying in Ogdensburg after all. I called the number, had to leave a message and e-mailed as well. After about 20 minutes I was beginning to panic a bit and started looking at alternatives!! Just as I did this the owner showed up - Phew!! The place we are staying at was the original town school which has now been converted to a 4 room Inn. It was fun chatting to John the owner, as it turns out he used to go to school there. He was living in California and heard the school was closing. Half jokingly he told his school friends at their 30th reunion that he was going to buy the school and open a B&B! Next thing he knew it had happened!! The 4 rooms are the original classrooms and are massive. We really enjoyed our stay here.
Trip - 275 miles


Day 57. Friday. After a sound night's sleep in our classroom we were treated to a lovely cooked breakfast by John. Then, back on the road, taking a pleasant route along the banks of the St. Lawrence River for a while. Eventually we rejoined Rte 2 and crossed our outbound path. We even had coffee at Rouses Point where we stopped on Day 2! Seems like a long time ago. We then wound our way over the Green Mountains of Vermont and crossed into New Hampshire. It seems strange to be back in New England again but somehow comforting. The scenery and smells are so different, everything is lush and green, the Fall colors are just starting and it was a spectacular day.
For our final hurrah we are staying at a lovely New England Style Inn on Sugar Hill near Franconia. There are spectacular views of the White Mountains from our room and they have a Pub / Tavern where we will go for dinner - Perfect!
Trip - 264.8 miles





Monday 25 September 2017

Day 53. A morning at the Museum!

After touring Taliesin in Spring Green on Sunday morning we hopped back on the bikes and rode into Milwaukee. It was another hot day, apparently unusually hot for this time of year. We are just pleased to be riding under clear blue, sunny skies! We had to deal with a bit of traffic but not too bad and we made it to the very lovely Iron Horse Hotel in the up and coming Walker Point area of Milwaukee. It has been 3 year since we last stayed here and it is as nice as we remembered it. They cater to bikers and our babies had covered parking for the night.


We went to a local brew pub and enjoyed watching the Packers win a close game at their home stadium. The crowd in the pub were going wild - such fun! 

Monday morning we were up and off after breakfast to the Harley Davidson Museum. It is a bit of a pilgrimage for us to bring the bikes here and always fun to get the obligatory photos posed in front of the statue and the museum.




Then we spent a few hours revisiting some of our favorite exhibits and enjoying some of the new ones. It was a great morning!

 Harley #1 - priceless!


An exact reproduction of "Captain America" from Easy Rider - no one knows what happened to the original!

I like to think that Tom & I would be considered the former!

After, enjoying the museum we resumed our travels around Lake Michigan. We continued riding along the west shoreline all the way up to Door County and Sturgeon Bay.
We checked into the Holiday Music Motel - a lovely retro 50's style place. They hold music writing seminars here several times a year and continuously broadcast music from their own radio station on site.


We loved the decor!

The lovely harbor front of Sturgeon Bay.


Sunday 24 September 2017

Days 51 & 52. Spring Green, Wisconsin.

Saturday morning saw us up and off early again to continue our Eastward trek. We jumped right back onto the I 90 again for another 120 miles and then turned off once we reached the Mississippi River. We took the Great River Road, a scenic route down the west side of the river. After crossing to the east side we decided to go "off piste" off our route and rode further south than planned to Prairie Le Chien, mainly because we loved the name! This is the second oldest town in Wisconsin having been settled and named by the French in the late 17th Century. It certainly was a cool town and we found a great spot for lunch and a coffee.




After lunch we continued east along the Wisconsin River until we reached Spring Green, Wisconsin. Here we checked into our motel for the night.
We are now on the Frank Lloyd Wright trail and thought the Usonian Inn was a good place to start. Usonia was a term coined by the man himself to refer to his vision for the landscape of the United States. Usonian is now generally used to describe a certain group of homes designed for middle class Americans in the 1930s.
The Usonian Inn can be seen as a flat, single story, simple building across the field.

Our bikes parked outside our room at the inn. It was a super place and really got us excited for Sunday's planned activity. But first we took a walk into town and enjoyed spotting some of the Wright inspired architecture.
This bank was designed by his son-in-law. As was it's little brother two doors down:
This place was originally built to match the bigger bank as a drive through branch. It is now privately owned. The owner saw us admiring it, invited us inside and showed us around! What a privilege this was and the owner and his wife have done an amazing job of sympathetically converting it into a lovely weekend home complete with Frank Lloyd Wright style decor and furniture.

After a good nights sleep we were up early again and after a hearty breakfast at a nearby restaurant we packed up, loaded the bikes and rode 5 minutes south to the Frank Lloyd Wright visitor center.

This building was designed by FLW as a restaurant but was not completed whilst he was still alive. It is now home to the Taliesin Preservation, Inc and serves as the base for tours to Taliesin itself.


After enjoying looking around inside we boarded a small bus with our guide and were driven up to Taliesin itself.
 View of the front of the house from the bus!
 There are a number of buildings built around the crown of a hillside.
View of the back of the main house.

Taliesin was Wright's primary residence for 48 years, from 1911 to 1959. The Taliesin Preservation was founded an 1990 with the sole purpose of preserving the Taliesin estate as an eminent example of the vision of Frank Lloyd Wright. We were given an excellent tour in a small group and learned a lot about the history of this magnificent estate and the great man himself.






The inside, containing many of his collected artifacts was fascinating and, of course, quite unique.

 The above was his desk where he would sit and draw his designs
He apparently loved to play the piano and had several in the house in his day. Note also the music stand designed by FLW for a string quartet to sit and play.




Friday 22 September 2017

Day 50. To Albert Lea, MN.

We needed to make some progress east and toady was the day. We were up early and on the road by 7:15 am. The temperatures were a little warmer than they have been this early but we still layered up. A quick ride out of the Badlands and back to the I 90 where we stayed all day! We travelled a total of 450 miles at an average speed of 71 mph! The day soon became very warm with temperatures reaching to the 90's by the end of the day. In addition to the heat we had to contend with a very strong cross wind of 20 -30 mph which made for some interesting riding as we had to lean the bikes into it.

Thankfully traffic in this part of the world is fairly sparse and we had a trouble free ride. Good progress was made but of course we crossed into Central Time Zone once we crossed the state border into Minnesota, so we lost an hour! Nonetheless we arrived at our destination at a reasonable hour and will have an early night.

Total miles for the trip so far = 9,049.

Thursday 21 September 2017

Day 49. An Oil Change and return to the Badlands.

After a comfortable night in Buffalo, WY, we were up before daybreak to get the bikes packed so we could set out as the sun rose. We had 200 miles to cover to reach Black Hills Harley Davidson in Rapid City for a change of fluids for the bikes. We hopped onto the I 90 and made good progress, reaching the dealership by a little after 10:00 am. They are super efficient there, as we know from previous visits,  got the bikes in right away and whilst the bikes were being worked on we had a nice time relaxing in the showroom admiring the bikes and chatting with some of the guys working there.
I was delighted to meet this little guy, who had apparently just ridden in on his Harley!


You can have any color you want as long as it's black!

Once the bikes were done we hit the road again, back on the I 90 to Wall, SD. Here we exited and headed off to one of our favorite places - The Badlands. We have visited this place on each of our 2 previous trips out West - we will come back again if we can!










Once we completed the scenic drive down to the visitor center we checked into our little log cabin right in the park. A quick shower and we were seated outside in Adirondack chairs on our deck, refreshments in hand to watch the amazing changes to the East as the sun set.




An amazing end to another perfect day!